A short recipe for adventurous field science
Step 1: Come up with a hair-brained scheme.
My labmate Yara and I had been dreaming up the idea studying wood frog genomes from across the species’ range since she started her PhD. Wood frogs have the largest range of any North American amphibian. They also happen to be the only North American amphibian that can survive North of the Arctic circle.
Dr. Julie Lee-Yaw had done a similar study back in 2008. She embarked on a road trip from Quebec all the way up to Alaska to collect wood frog tissue. So, out first step was to ask Dr. Lee-Yaw if she would collaborate and share her samples.
Those samples gave us a solid backbone across the wood frog range, but we were missing population in expansive regions north and west of the road systems. We worked with the Peabody Museum to search for tissue samples that were already housed in natural history collections around the world. We filled a few gaps, but huge portions of the range were still missing.
We knew that there must be samples out there sitting in freezers and labrooms that were not catalogued in museum databases. So, our next step was to begin sleuthing. We looked up author lists from papers and cold-called leads. I even reached out to friends on Facebook (…which actually turned out to be a big success. The aunt of a friend from undergrad happens to do herpetology research in Galena, Alaska and was able to collect fresh samples for us this year!). This effort greatly expanded our sample coverage with new connections (and friends) from Inuvik and Norman Wells in the Northwest Territories, Churchill on the Hudson Bay, and the Stikine River Delta in Southeast Alaska.
But as the points accumulated on the map, we noticed some glaring holes in our coverage. Most importantly, we had no samples from Northwestern Alaska. Populations in this region are the most distant from the ancestral origin of all wood frogs in the southern Great Lakes. If we wanted a truly “range-wide” representation of wood frog samples, we needed tissue from that blank spot on the map!
Step 2: Convince your advisor and funders it’s a good idea.
This might be the hardest step. In our case, Yara and I were lucky that our advisor, Dave, was immediately supportive of the project. After we made the case for the importance of these samples, funders came around to the idea as well.
Step 3: Make a plan …then remake it …then make a new plan yet again.
Once we knew where we required samples from, we needed to figure out how to get there. Alaska in general is remote, but northwestern Alaska is REALLY remote. The road system doesn’t stretch farther than the middle of the state. All of the communities–mainly small villages–are only accessible by plane, and most of them only have runways for tiny prop planes. Travelling out from the villages into the bush is another layer of difficulty. Most people here either travel by boat on the river or by snowmachine during the winter. Traveling on land, over the soggy and brush-choked permafrost, is brutal and most locals only do it when necessary, if at all.
Prior to academia, I made a career of organizing expeditions to the most remote places in the rugged southeastern archipelago of Alaska. Despite my background, the logistic in the Arctic were even inscrutable to me. Fortunately, I had a couple of friends, Nick Jans and Seth Kantner, who know the area well. In fact, Seth grew up in a cabin out on the Kobuk. (Seth and Nick are both talented authors. I suggest checking out Ordinary Wolves by Seth and The Last Light Breaking by Nick). With their help, I was able to piece together the skeleton of a trip.
After many logistic iterations, Yara and I decided to follow in the footsteps of local hunters who, for generations, have used the rivers as conduits into the heart of the wilderness. Our plan was to travel down one of the major arterial rivers and hike inland to search for frog as we went.
Our original itinerary was to raft the 100 mile section of the Kobuk River from just north of Ambler village to the village of Kiana. But at the last minute (literally), our plans changed. As we were loading up the plane, the pilot told us that he couldn’t fly into our planned starting point. Instead, he suggested that we fly into a gravel bar 30 miles up river in Gate of the Arctic. Those “30 miles” turn out to be AIR MILES. Following the river, it ended up adding over 60 miles to our trip.
We packed two inflatable oar rafts, almost 150 pounds of food, and another 300 pounds of camping, rescue, and science gear, into the balloon-wheeled plane. For the next two weeks, we rowed down the swift Ambler River from the headwaters to the confluence of the Kobuk. Then, we rowed down the massively wide and meandering Kobuk River, eventually extending our trip by an additional 30 miles, by-passing Kiana, and continuing to Noorvik, the last village on the river.
Step 4: Recruit a crew.
Despite being the worlds first and only Saudi Arabian Arctic Ecologist with limited camping experience, I knew Yara would be a stellar field partner. But I never like traveling in brown bear country with fewer than four people. Plus, expedition research involves too many daily chores for the two of us to manage alone. So, we recruited a team.
Sam Jordan is a dry land ecologist, but he had been willing to help me with my dissertation fieldwork in wetlands before, so I knew he would be willing to defect for a good adventure. Sam is also an exceptional whitewater paddler and all-around outdoor guru. Plus, he’s just a great guy (when he leaves his banjo at home). He and I spend two weeks floating the Grand Canyon in the dead of winter and there are few people I would want along on a remote river trip.
Kaylyn Messer and I guided sea kayak expeditions in Southeast Alaska back in our youth. I am a bit particular about how I manage my camp system (read: “extremely picky and fastidious to a fault”) on big trips. Kaylyn is one of the few people as scrupulous as me, but she’s also a super amenable Midwesterner at heart. I knew she’d be a huge help out in the field.
We fell into an effective rhythm on the trip. Each morning we woke, made breakfast, broke camp, packed the boats, and launched early in the day. While one person on each boat rowed, the other person checked the maps for frog surveying spots, fished, or photographed. We stopped along the way to bushwhack back into wetlands we’d identified from satellite images. We typically arrived at camp late. Yara and I would set up one tent to process the specimens from the day while Same and Kay made camp and cooked dinner. One of the hidden disadvantages of 24-hour Arctic sunlight is that it is easy to overwork. Most nights we only managed to get sampled finished, dinner cleaned up, and camp bearproofed with enough time to crawl into tents with just eight hours till beginning again the next day.
Step 5: Do the science.
Doing science in the field is difficult. Tedious dissections seem impossible while baking in the omnipresent sun and being alternately hounded by hundreds of mosquitoes or blasted by windblown sand. Trading lab coats for rain jackets and benchtops for sleeping pads covered in trashbags compounds the trouble. Not to mention, keeping tissues safe and cool. Organization and adaptability go a long way.
On remote, self-supported trips, it is inevitable that equipment fails or is lost. On one of the first days, we discovered that our formalin jar was leaking—and formalin is not something you want sloshing around! We cleaned the boats and found a creative solution to replace the offending container: a 750ml Jack Daniel’s bottle!
Planning ahead and engineering backup plans also helps. One of our main struggles was figuring out how to preserve specimens and get them home. It is illegal to ship alcohol by mail and you can’t fly with the high-proof alcohol needed for genetic samples. You can ship formalin, but it is difficult to fly with. To make matters worse, we were flying in and out of “dry” or “damp” villages where alcohol is strictly regulated or forbidden. Also, we happened to be flying out on a Sunday, making it impossible to mail samples home. The solution we arrived at was to ship RNAlater and formaldehyde to our hotel room ahead of time. Tissue would remain stable in RNAlater for a couple of weeks and we could make formalin to fix the specimens. After fixing, we cycled the specimens through water to leach out the formalin. This made it possible for me to fly with all of the tissue tubes and damp specimens in my carry on. Other than a few concerned looks from the TSA folks, all of the samples made it back without issue!
Step 6: Enjoy the adventure.
Despite the hard work, there was a lot to appreciate about the Arctic. We witnessed major changes in ecology as we travelled from the steep headwater streams in the mountains to the gigantic Kobuk. Every day was an entirely new scene.
Here’s an illustrated thread on our collecting trip to the Alaskan Arctic for the @Yale @yalepeabody this past summer. 1/22 pic.twitter.com/Jh3VCqVEgx
— A. Z. Andis Arietta (@azandisarietta) August 24, 2021
Step 7: Forget the hardships
Looking back, it is really easy to forget the sweltering heat, swarms of mosquitoes, inescapable sun, and freak lightning storms. And, it’s probably better to forget those anyway!
